When I started work in 1974 Mum took me shopping to get a “good coat”. We found a pure wool coat in Wallis with a good amount of wrap-over in the front, buttons from the collar to a few inches from the hem. An inverted pleat in the back so it hung nicely and didn’t cling around my hips and bottom. No vent.
Can’t remember how much it cost but it was expensive. It lasted me at least 10 years -I looked after it properly and it always looked like new. Sadly it was damaged by moth and had to go.
Helene Berman’s coats look shoddy compared to my old coat.